Vintage Mustangs Restored to Original Condition will Always Have Their Place. But for Street-Driven Early Ponies, These Ideas will Greatly Enhance the Driving Experience.
Now Listen Up! We Take National Parts Depot’s Turbo 2-1/4 System And Try A Variety Of Mufflers On For Size. Get The Sounds Here! Just Click On The Speaker Icon Below...
01-03-07: “Blackjack” as the Stage 3 Mustang has been dubbed, the car that Jack Roush had transported around the country last race season for use as his personal car will be auctioned later in January at Barrett-Jackson. Along with it, a number of other vehicles with Roush involvement will be auctioned as well.
The black Stage 3 Mustang was Jack and Jack Roush Jr’s personal ride while on location around the country at NASCAR events. Roush has announced that it was indeed a “feasibility vehicle” that will actually be produced as a special edition of only 100 vehicles this year.
During the race season the car is said to have been initially referred to as “Nitemare.” The “Blackjack” nickname evolved later but is the one that has stuck. The blacked out version of the Stage 3 is said to be of Jack’s own vision and creative scheming. It has a subtle but menacing looking flat black center stripe over a gloss black body. The bright red brake calipers and Stage 3 center-cap logo jump off the car.
Pricing or an official list of specifications have not yet been announced, but you can count on a version of the ROUSHCharged 4.6 liter Mustang V8 engine producing 430 hp.
The “BlackJack” prototype however will start the public debut of this special edition. It will be auctioned in Scottsdale on Saturday the 20th of January. Is lot number 1286.1.
Miller's Crossing has a old fashion friendly staff that makes everyone feel at home. If your are visiting Irrigon, Oregon you must stop in for a cool drink and some friendly hospitality. .
I would like to offer my artwork by way of High quality automotive art prints for you and your members. My name is Danny Whitfield and I'm the artist and and president of Autovision,"The official Automotive Artwork of Danny l Whitfield" www.dannywhitfield.com
If you have a chance to look over my website and become interested, I offer a 10% discount on all orders for members only.
Rear-Ends: The first step in all performance modifications
One of the most cost effective performance boost for the buck can come from just a little attention to your rear end. Factory Mustangs are designed to meet factory standards of fuel economy and handling with little thought to racing design that these cars are often marketed as. Truth is the factory is placing highway ring and pinion gears designed to reduce wear on the engine by slower pickup speeds and lower Rotations Per Minute (RPM). This also provides better gas mileage, but fails to give you the sports car feel. Modifications to the engine will increase performance, but if this energy does not get transferred to the tires what good is it. Now that we have the basics, a chain is as strong as it weakest point. A performance car is as good as it weakest point. Too much on the front end will eat up your drive shaft and rear end. This is true for all modifications, power needs to be balanced. The rear end should always be the first modification depending on your desired end use. Example is a drag racer would desire a low ring and pinion gear, common being a 4.10:1 or 3.73:1 ratio giving you better acceleration and low end response. You would also desire a stronger drive shaft to transfer the added power. Two basic type of rear ends are open ended and Traction-Lok sometimes called Posi Traction. Open ended that drives only one tire (not recommend for drag racing). This reduces power to the tires since only tire is powered and has no benefit on a strait away. Traction-Lok powers both tires providing more traction and power to the wheels. The down side to Traction-Loc is since both tires are powered, turning will cause chatter do to uneven demands from stresses. Not ideal for highway speeds and turning.
Getting the Right Rear-End
Ford has three historical rear-ends the 7.5 inch, 8.8 inch and 9 inch. 7.5 inch round rear-end is a light weight rear-end used before 1986 and continued in automatics. This rear end is light weight and good from a daily driver, normal running but not designed for modifications designed for speed. If speed and performance s your desire, a 8.8 inch rear-end is a must. The 9inch is a heavy duty rear-end good for drag racing. You will have to raise your ride to accommodate. Even though the 9inch is popular for a person that wants a car with performance I would recommend a 8.8inch this allows for standard driving with the needed power when need.
Ring and Pinion Gear Change
From the factory mustangs usually come with a Traction-Lok 2.73 ring and pinion gears ratio depending on year of your car and standards performance package . First you have to decide what you want to do with your mustang. Is it going to be a daily highway driver? A Sunday Driver? Will you be stuck in the city(stop and go traffic)? or just a weekend drag racer? You basically have 6 choices for ring and pinion gears: 2.73, 3.08, 3.27, 3.55, 3.73, and 4.10. the first 3 ring and pinion gear ratios are better for top-end, high speed performance, and the all important fuel economy to the highway commuters. The 3.55:1 is kind of an all around ring and pinion gear you get fuel economy and still have the power to pass cars at will on the freeway. 3.73:1 and 4.10:1 are better for acceleration and low end responsiveness. Ford actually had a large number of options for these ring and pinion gears ranging from 2.33:1 to 4.10:1 and you can get ring and pinion gears over 5.00:1
How do I figure out what gears I have?
The rear-end ratio of a vehicle is selected carefully by the manufacturer, who may have many criteria to achieve. In a gas crisis, manufacturers opt for unusually tall ratios which help highway fuel efficiency but seriously hamper acceleration and pulling power for towing; not to mention contributing to excessive clutch wear. With many older vehicles, as highway speeds have increased, we find the engine turning too fast, making the engine noisy and thirsty. The overall ratio of a vehicle can be changed dramatically by installing larger or smaller diameter wheels and tires.
Many vehicles come ill-equipped to handle different driving needs. Add a trailer or just desire a little more "zoom in your broom" and the condition gets worse. In an attempt to make the vehicle pull better we are inclined to open the hood for more power, when in fact our money is better spent by changing the rear-end ratio. Suddenly the engine pulls better, cools faster, the transmission ratios work better and there is increased engine braking for improved vehicle control down hills.
We must first determine the vehicle’s rear-end ratio. Ford have ID tags on the differential cover . Call the dealer, or you can refer to the option list. If all else fails, mark the drive shaft and the tires with chalk, turn both wheels forward one turn and record how many turns the driveshaft makes. To give an example: if the driveshaft turns 3 and 3/4 turns for one turn of the wheel, you can assume the ratio is 3.73:1. Most manufacturers ratios move in increments of approximately .25:1.
For example: 6.00:1 6.20:1 6.50:1
5.14:1 5.38:1 5.71:1
4.10:1 4.56:1 4.63:1 4.88:1
3.08:1 3.23:1 3.42:1 3.55:1 3.73:1 3.91:1
2.26:1 2.41:1 2.56:1 2.73:1 2.94:1
When dissatisfied with a vehicle’s ratio it is necessary to move at least two steps, and only after serious consideration, perhaps move a third increment. Some popular examples are:
Ford - 3.55:1 to 4.10:1
Ford Mustang 5L - 3.08:1 to 3.55:1 or 3.73:1
Ford pickup - 4.10:1 to 3.54:1 or more when possible.
To check the ratio, divide the number of teeth on the pinion gear into the number of teeth on the crown (ring) gear: this gives the gear ratio.
ie. 11 into 39 equals 3.55:1
11 into 45 equals 4.09:1
Most vehicle engines reach their ratio number in rpm at approximately 150 kph (high highway speed); at this speed the rpm can be determined by simply adding a zero on the end of the ratio.
ie. 3.55:1 gives us 3550 rpm @ 150 kph
4.09:1 gives us 4090 rpm @ 150 kph
A vehicle with 3.08:1 gears turns approximately 1800 rpm at 90 kph. If the rear-end ratio is then changed to 3.73:1, the engine speed will increase to 2179 rpm at the same speed. Simply divide the old rpm by the old ratio and multiply by the new ratio to get the new rpm.
ie. 2000 rpm divided by 2.73:1 (old ratio) and multiplied by 3.55:1 (new ratio) gives 2600 rpm.
For an 8 cylinder vehicle, multiply the tire diameter in inches by 12 to get the optimum rear-end ratio. For a 4 or 6 cylinder, multiply by 14.
ie. 8 cylinder - 28" x 12 gives a ratio of 3.36:1
4-6 cylinder - 28" x 12 gives a ratio of 3.92:1
Only the experienced should venture to replace rear-end gears. The procedure requires special tools and undivided attention to detail, especially to the gear contact and how it can be adjusted to run smoothly and quietly. Some manufacturers use different crown gear carrier heights for different ratios just to make things more complicated. Also, in many cases the speedometer would have to be corrected. The speedometer could be corrected usually be changing the plastic driven gear in the transmission after a simple calculation. Divide the number of teeth on the speed-o driven gear by the old rear-end ratio and then multiply by the new rear-end ratio. this gives the new speed-o gear tooth count.
ie. 18 tooth gear divided by 3.08:1 multiplied by 3.55:1 equals 20.75
Install a 20 tooth gear for a "very slightly" fast speed-o reading for safety.
Gear Chart
When changing a tire size it is imperative that you change gear ratios accordingly for your vehilce to maintain peak performance.
How to remove a classic mustangs ignition switch cylinder
Steps to remove the ignition switch cylinder from the ignition switch:
1. You must have the key.
2. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it counter-clockwise to the "ACC" position.
3. Insert a paper clip into the hole on the ignition switch cylinder.
4. Turn the key counter-clockwise to the 9-o-clock position.
5. You can now pull the cylinder out of the ignition switch.
1968 Mustang wring diagrams
Identify Your Classic Mustang
Special thanks to: Mike Blommel
All About Blowers
The ins and outs of compressing air.
There are hordes of late-model Mustang owners who will swear a blower is the only way to fly. These folks have felt the magic of supercharging, be it the sight of an intimidating polished huffer, having heard the inrush of air whistling at high pitch, or perhaps they have felt the good graces of g-force created from boost and unchained horsepower.
Ah, yes, superchargers, those miraculous devices that can easily double the power of a stock engine or help you build a beast capable of 2,000 hp or more.
Today, with technology being so advanced, making those ponies is not all that hard. But there's a science to how it all works and it takes a bit of knowledge to make big power and keep it alive. And that science involves getting the air into the cylinders and providing the best diet of fuel, timing and octane.
Ever since the late-model Mustang gained huge popularity in the mid-'80s, the supercharger has been one of the most sought-after, add-on accessories. Back in the day, blowers were far less common than they are today. They had an almost mystical aura about them, even in the early '90s. Today, you can only describe their popularity as a mania. We at MM&FF know how popular they are, because over the course of each month we get dozens of letters and e-mails asking about superchargers and the effect they will have on a particular car or engine. The questioning includes, "How much power will a blower add? Will a blower hurt my engine?" And, "Which is the best one?"
I'll tell you right off the bat that we've yet to find one single "best" supercharger. This may disappoint those looking for a clear-cut winner, but the bottom line is that most blowers work well, both in theory and practice, and all have good points and bad. And, while there are ways to directly compare blowers, it's more important to understand how they work and what to expect from each one. Different vehicles may benefit from one type or another so it's important to know what you're looking for.
When picking a supercharger, you'll need to consider the size of the unit, the type of drive system, airflow potential/boost capabilities and the drive speed. In addition, consider the weight of the vehicle, transmission type, gearing and the manner in which the vehicle will be used. Is it a drag-only vehicle or is it mainly street driven? If it's heavy, like a Lightning, it will love low-rpm torque, and if it's light (3,000 pounds or less), it can afford to give up on torque in order to make more high-rpm horsepower.
There are enough types, sizes, makes and models to confuse even the brightest blower backer. Superchargers are relatively simple machines, however, finding maximum power and keeping the engine alive is a different thing entirely. This part of the equation is complicated indeed, but we plan to diffuse the important facts and expose the myths. So fret not fearless Stang bangers, because in the next few pages we plan to take a journey through the land of supercharging. But we caution you. Reading this may just "force" you to get blown.
Forced Induction
A supercharger, by definition in Webster's Dictionary, is "an apparatus consisting of a pump, compressor, or blower used to increase the volume of air over and above that which would normally be drawn into an internal combustion engine due to the action of its pistons."
When the engine is naturally aspirated it relies on the pumping action of the pistons to draw air into the cylinders. The negative pressure in the cylinders combined with the ram effect of the intake manifold, camshaft overlap and exhaust scavenging, allows each cylinder to draw in the air/fuel mixture every time the intake valve opens. With supercharging, air is constantly being packed into the intake manifold under pressure (called boost), so the air is forced into the cylinders when the intake valve opens, rather than being drawn in solely based on the pressure differential between that of the cylinders and the atmosphere in the manifold. This additional air provided by the supercharger simply permits the engine to burn more fuel, thus creating more cylinder pressure and, with any luck, more power. Supercharging is really that simple--on the surface.
Since a supercharger is a compressor driven by the crankshaft, the output of the blower changes with rpm (speed). Generally, the output will increase until the point of peak efficiency, and then output falls off. Eventually the blower will reach the point where it makes no more boost, just extra heat.
Supercharging has been around for quite some time and has been used on all types of engines, including piston-driven aircraft and generators in big industry. In auto racing (and in high-performance street applications), we've learned to apply supercharger technology to help our internal combustion engines achieve incredible power levels. With a blower, volumetric efficiency can easily exceed 100 percent, while most naturally aspirated engines struggle to achieve 60-80 percent VE.
Another benefit is that owners can retain the stock cam, heads and, in some cases, the induction system, therefore, retaining much of the OE driveability, yet still realize a huge increase in performance.
The most extreme supercharged engines can be found in drag racing, namely in the Top Fuel and Funny Car ranks. These extreme machines utilize 500-cubic-inch engines with hemispherical combustion chambers and they burn a specialized fuel called nitromethane. Using large 14-71 Roots-style blowers, these "fuel burners" produce 45-50 psi of boost and generate upwards of 8,000 hp. Today's Top Fuel cars run quarter-mile times in 4.40s at speeds over 330 mph.
A good portion of the massive power comes directly from the fuel and its explosive force. Unlike leaded racing gasoline, nitromethane carries its own oxygen and requires a nearly equal 1.7:1 air/fuel ratio. Compare that to a gasoline-burning supercharged engine that will require a 11.5-12.0:1 a/f ratio.
At wide open throttle, the nitro burner's fuel flow is equivalent to a garden hose with the nozzle held wide open--and that's per cylinder. If you've watched drag racing on TV you've seen the header flames, but at times there is raw fuel pouring out of the headers during a run. The engine is said to have "dropped a cylinder" and it happens when the spark plugs can no longer light the massive quantity of fuel. This can lead to all kinds of problems. One is engine hydraulicing and that's often followed by a massive explosion and ensuing fireball. But Top Fuel engines aren't the only supercharged beasts that go boom in the night when things go wrong.
We've seen many Mustangs and Lightnings have failures as a result of boost, however, this isn't a fair way to explain all the blow-ups. Read on and I'll explain. Remember one of the questions that I said we often get, "Will a blower hurt my engine?" The answer here is yes and no. (And I'm not trying to be a wise guy, either.)
First I'll cover the "yes." A supercharger can cause engine damage that otherwise wouldn't occur, but the common failures (blown head gaskets, cracked blocks and burned pistons) are often the result of a poor engine tune-up, gasoline with insufficient octane rating, abuse from the driver or any combination of the three.
"First off you have to consider the condition of the engine," stated Ricky Best, the Race/Media Relations Manager for Vortech Engineering. "Most bolt-on systems making about 8 pounds of boost are designed and tuned to be able to be applied to completely stock, as well as modified engines, without having any adverse effects on the motor itself. If the engine is ailing or high in mileage and is using oil, then the supercharger is only going to help your engine find an early grave."
With today's kits, you can easily add 100-150 hp to a stock engine, and anytime you take a component and push it that far past the factory-designed capabilities there is a chance of failure. When it comes to building and tuning your own supercharged car, you must carefully select each piece of the puzzle. This includes the short-block, the heads, the fuel system, and don't forget the fuel management system, the type of gaskets, the intake manifold, ignition and, of course, the type of fuel.
Still, what people fail to realize is that despite the power increase, most problems come from a poor tune-up. In addition, remember that as horsepower increases there is additional heat as a result. It takes extra air and fuel to make extra power and burning extra fuel means more heat. Compressing the air also creates heat, and the stock 5.0 or 4.6 engine was not originally designed to dissipate all that extra heat, so you have to manage it properly. Mismanaging it leads to problems and one example of mismanaging is beating the snot out of your supercharged engine with it cooking hot. Another is turning up the boost without re-tuning.
"Tuning is a big thing," adds Best. "Assuming the engine is healthy and the kit has been installed correctly, the number one killer of most supercharged applications is bad tuning. Bad tuning can be anything from improper air/fuel ratio, too much or not enough ignition timing, too much or not enough fuel pressure, improper FMU, and incorrect spark plugs. Lastly is boost pressure. It's really easy to get your first supercharger and get it installed and running and have a lot of fun, only to find out that you can swap a pulley and get more boost. What you need to keep in mind is that adding boost means more airflow and that usually means more heat. And more heat requires more fuel and less timing. The bottom line is that all of the variables need to be addressed."
With this you can also see how the answer to the original question could also be no. A blower alone can't hurt the engine, because all it's doing is feeding in more air. In other words, it's the tune and the ability of the driver to pay attention and use the equipment in a mature fashion that will help longevity.
When it comes to the tune, care must be taken to ensure that the compressed air (read: boost) is matched with the correct ratio of fuel and the proper timing advance curve. Force-feeding the engine presents us with challenges that must be overcome in order to maintain good power, driveability and reliability. The most notable demon is detonation. By its nature, compressing air creates heat and this potentially results in engine-damaging detonation.
"We've worked with flame-front experts and we know that auto-ignition or detonation creates cylinder pressures that are up to 10 times that of normal combustion," stated Dan Jones of ATI/ProCharger. "Pre-ignition or unscheduled spark ignition occurs when the piston is traveling up the bore and is not yet at the point for the scheduled ignition but ignition occurs without the spark plug firing."
When this occurs, the mixture begins to burn prematurely and cylinder pressure skyrockets. The piston is still on the way up, but it's fighting the cylinder pressure that's not supposed to be present. Then, the spark plug fires and the scheduled flamefront begins. Ultimately the two flamefronts collide and the sound is heard as a knocking or pinging, i.e. detonation. This not only creates tremendous pressure in the cylinder, but also creates unwanted harmonics throughout the engine. And over time (sometimes a really, really short time) these harmonics cause major engine parts to fail. But even when pistons or head gaskets do survive detonation, the related effect places severe load on the crankshaft and the bearings, as well as the rings and the block.
According to Jones, the problems associated with detonation far exceed the alleged problem of extra load on the engine imposed from simply making extra horsepower and torque.
"When the engine is running properly there is a very short period in degrees of crankshaft rotation where big force is applied to the pistons. This occurs during the power stroke and for a short time just after the mixture is combusted as the piston crosses TDC," said Jones. "It's important to note that with forced-induction engines there is less total peak rod/piston/crank load, but the duration of the power application is longer than with naturally aspirated engines. This means the force is being applied closer to the point at which the crank nears the 90-degree angle and this means more torque can be applied."
Roots and Screws
There are three common types of superchargers (centrifugal, Roots and screw-type or twin-screw) and each one of them is designed to do the same thing--make boost. But while they all force air into the engine, they possess different characteristics.
Hot rodders are familiar with Roots-style blowers seen perched atop Pro Street or Top Fuel engines. Roots blowers have been around since the 1800s and they fall in the "positive displacement" or "fixed displacement" family. Twin-screw blowers are also positive-displacement blowers.
Positive-displacement superchargers are labeled as such because they move a fixed displacement of air per each revolution of the blower. As the rotors or lobes spin, a fixed amount of air is trapped and that air can not reverse in flow. An increase or decrease in airflow through the blower will be noticed based on the position of the throttle, but once the air enters the blower and is sealed between the rotors and the case (or the screw lobes) the amount of air per revolution can't change.
On the other hand, a centrifugal blower can allow a backflow of air because the air is not sealed within the compressor at any point. It's also important, but not critical, to note that screw and centrifugal superchargers compress the air within their housings, whereas Roots blowers force air through the blower and the compressing is done in the manifold.
Each blower has a case, usually cast from aluminum, with a machined inside, which houses two (or three) rotors. The rotors will have either two or three lobes, and some units, like the Eaton blower found on the Lightning and Cobra, have the lobes twisted. Air is drawn in at one point and guided towards the rotors. The rotors accelerate the air towards the outlet, where it is carried and fed into the intake manifold.
The blower or compressor is attached to a plenum that serves as the intake manifold. There's usually a machined surface where the blower sits, a plenum and runners to supply the ports. In most cases, the ports are short, due to space limitations and because a long runner is just not necessary when you have boost pressure. Roots blowers do a tremendous job of making instant boost, thus filling the cylinders at low rpm and this helps to generate great throttle response and torque.
Disadvantages to this style of supercharger are that (in most applications) they sit atop the engine, which can create packaging or hood clearance problems and that they generate lots of heat. There's not much you can do to solve the clearance problem, but with the use of intercoolers, aftercoolers and heat exchangers, the issue of heat is not as prevalent.
"Roots blowers are good reliable units, but the twin-screw is a much more efficient design. And that's why Ford has gone to a twin-screw on the new GT," stated Jim Bell of Kenne Bell Inc.
A screw blower looks similar from the outside, but the internals are completely different. With a twin-screw there are male lobes that intermesh with female lobes. Both sets rotate inward and as air is drawn in it is compressed and "screwed" forward towards the front of the case. According to Bell, rotor speed can approach 24,000 rpm.
Bell also said that by design the Roots is about 30 percent less efficient. Therefore, it must be 30 percent larger to pump the same amount of air. And larger blowers take more energy to turn so there are greater parasitic losses and more heat.
Because of the way each of the three blowers arrives at making boost, there are great debates as to which system is more efficient. The generation and dissipation of heat within a blower system has to do with thermodynamics (the physics of relationships between heat and other forms of energy) and this is quite the complicated subject.
Any time you compress air its temperature rises. You can't avoid this--it's one of the laws of physics. You also have heat generated by the blower itself due to internal friction, or more technically, by the work necessary to get the air from its natural pressure up to the desired boost pressure.
For instance, heat is generated at the bearings, within the blower's internal drive system, by the drivebelt and even by the friction of the air flowing through the blower. Centrifugal blower manufacturers tell us these units tend to be the more efficient because they are not bolted directly to the intake, so less heat is transferred to the engine. They are also easier to intercool, and intercoolers are an important tool. Intercooling (or aftercooling) reduces the temperature of the intake air charge and allows tuners to dial in more boost pressure and more ignition timing without as much fear of detonation.
Centrifugal Blowers
In direct contrast to the Roots or screw blower is the centrifugal supercharger. There is a huge difference between the designs of the two. Where the Roots and screw units are positive-displacement blowers, the centrifugal blower's displacement is not fixed.
Like their Roots cousins, centrifugal superchargers are also driven by the crankshaft, however, they are generally much smaller and are usually mounted at the front of the engine rather than on top (although there are some Roots blowers that are front-mounted and driven directly by the crank). This allows them to adapt easily to EFI engines because the owner can retain his or her complete throttle body and intake manifold system. In most cases, just the inlet tube (or system) needs to be modified.
The centrifugal housing is shaped similarly to a turbocharger and in place of rotors or screws, it uses an impeller (also similar to a turbo) to draw in air and direct it to the housing. "Centrifugal blowers are true compressors," stated Best. "As the supercharger draws in air it accelerates and compresses the air internally. The scroll collects the compressed air and forces it into the discharged tube and then into the intake manifold. A well designed compressor stage exhibits much higher efficiency than the Roots design, resulting in much greater net gains due to lower charge air temperature and parasitic loss," he added.
Centrifugal blowers accelerate the air due to centrifugal force, hence the name. The impeller wheel is driven by an internal transmission with a "step-up ratio" and a drive pulley system, therefore it can drive the impeller much faster than the actual engine rpm. Impeller speeds are generally in the range of 50,000-65,000 rpm.
"Centrifugal blowers take in air and the impeller carries or directs the air and accelerates it. It whips it up to speed dramatically, but the impeller doesn't compress the air or generate boost. The flow of air exits the impeller and enters a vaneless diffuser where it is straightened out and sent into the scroll. Air then slows down and pressure is created," explained Jones.
And since there are a virtually unlimited number of applications, blower manufacturers have developed a variety of housings and impeller types to suit the needs of everything from a stock 3.8- or 5-liter engine to a 6-second, 200-mph Pro racer. The size of the housing and the shape of the impeller blades (or fins) have a great affect on the boost curve and changes to the impeller can be made to fine tune this curve to maximize airflow and boost for a specific application.
If there is a downside to the centrifugal superchargers, it's that they rely on rpm to make boost and they give up low-rpm performance to the Roots and screw units in this department. Nevertheless, they are generally more efficient at making boost in the higher rpm ranges.
Today there is a huge number of blower kits available to Mustang and Lightning owners. The choices can be overwhelming, but we've found that picking the right blower requires nothing more than a little research on your part. The key to finding the best one for your combination is to select a unit that can supply the most efficient level of boost in the rpm range that you're building your engine for. In addition, consider the combination as a whole. For instance, heavier vehicles need more torque than lighter ones do and that's why the Eaton, Magnum Powers or Kenne Bell is the best choice for a 4,500-pound Lightning. But a Paxton, Powerdyne, ProCharger, Vortech may be the way to go for your 3,000-pound LX.
And lastly, remember that boost is awesome for a street-driven car and peak power numbers are important, but reliability and driveability should outweigh maximum power. We've seen too many people shoot for the moon, you know, for that last ounce of power and end up with a worthless pile of pistons, rods and crankshafts.
People often ask how long their stock short-block will last with a blower. To them, we point out our "Ice Box" '01 Mustang GT project car. It's had a Vortech SQ on it virtually since it was new. Thanks to a ported set of stock heads, Comp cams and a ported Bullitt intake, it now makes 542 rwhp and runs 11.2 at 126 on pump gas. It is driven daily year round on 93- or 94-octane fuel and has eclipsed 40,000 trouble-free miles on the untouched factory short-block.
Much of the credit has to go to its conservative JDM Engineering tune up. When tuning the car, JDM proprietor Jim D'Amore told us he could make more horsepower, but didn't feel comfortable going higher with the factory rods.
In other words, common sense should prevail. Always run good gas, keep a check on fuel pressure and timing and remember there's a time and a place to hold the gas to the floor.
Since the aftermarket began churning out parts for our beloved Fox body, horsepower claims have abounded, and their validity often ends in mixed results. Edelbrock has been around for 65 years now and you don't stay in business that long by making false claims. Extensive research is the foundation for each one of its parts, which ensures that they work properly and perform well.
The 5-liter Mustang benefits from a vast aftermarket and there are quite a few choices when it comes to buying an intake manifold. We had an Edelbrock Performer EFI manifold waiting in our performance parts stash here at the office, and were curious to see how it would perform on our resident supercharged 5-liter pony.
The vehicle in question has graced the pages of MM&FF several times, first with the installation of ProCharger's P1-SC intercooled supercharger. This was followed by a complete exhaust system from Bassani, an FRPP Cobra R four-wheel disc brake conversion and a Clutchmasters clutch and aluminum flywheel (along with some much needed 3.55 rear gearing). The Mustang's engine remained stock from the throttle body to the oil pan with just the aforementioned bolt-on items increasing horsepower from 202.2 to 345.7 at the wheels at 10 psi. Torque had risen from 275.6 lb-ft to 390.9.
Edelbrock's Performer intake manifold (PN# 3821) retails for around $480 depending on where you purchase it, and the 50-state-legal unit is said to offer up to 37 hp with no loss of low-speed torque. Since the throttle body opening is cast for a 70mm unit, we ordered a new BBK 70mm throttle body and spacer from Brothers Performance; it just didn't seem right to choke off the new manifold with the stock 58mm unit.
Mechanically, the task of switching manifolds is not that difficult for the weekend wrench turner. We took our time, with frequent breaks for ice tea, and finished in less than a day. While we were switching manifolds, we took the opportunity to change the blower oil and polish the outer case. A swap on a naturally aspirated engine would take a bit less time.
Post installation, we took the supercharged Stang back to LaRocca's Performance in Old Bridge, New Jersey, to not only verify the change in power output, but also to make sure that the air/fuel ratio was still in check. The Edelbrock manifold offers a larger volume of air than the stock piece, and it turned out that the air/fuel went leaner from 11.5:1 to 12.5:1. The first dyno pull netted 393 hp, nearly a 50hp gain over the stock manifold, but the crew at LaRocca's was not comfortable with the lean A/F ratio. After making changes to the Mustang's custom computer chip, the air/fuel was back at 11.5:1 and we saw 383.5 hp and 407.8 lb-ft of torque at the wheels; a gain of 37.8 hp and 16.9 lb-ft of torque.
The resulting power increase was probably helped by the 10-psi of boost from the supercharger and, at this point, the cylinder heads and tiny valves are the biggest restriction now. Still, with 383 rwhp and a set of BFG drag radials, we were able to slash our previous best-elapsed time of 12.58 to a 12.25, and mph went from 110 to 114. We even went 12.55 on our 245/45x17 street tires. This just from a few hours in the garage on a Saturday, and we didn't even have to take off the valve covers. Read along to see what was involved. ►Story
Depending on quality and installers prices very greatly but a good ring and pinion gears for no more then $250.00 in parts and Between $200 to $600 dollars for a good shop to install.
When selecting a Gear Ratio, you should consider the following:
Tire Size
Transmission Ratio
Final Gear Ratio
Engine RPM at Cruise Speed
The chart below shows the RPM calculations at 55 MPH for multiple combinations of final Gear Ratio and Tire Diameters.
According to this chart, the acceptable RPM range is 2000-3000 which is represented by the entire shaded area of the chart. The optimum RPM range is 2300-2600, and is represented by the light yellow shading. When changing ratios to improve mileage, choose a ratio within the light blue shaded band above the optimum range. When changing ratios to improve power, choose a ratio within the red shaded band below to optimum the optimum range.
While it's always recommended to have a professional inspect any classic car you intend to buy, there are a few things you can check out fairly easily on your own. This procedure is great to have in mind if you're considering a fully restored classic.
Mechanical Condition
One of the firsts things you'll want to check are the obvious mechanical problems. Look under the car and examine the driveline, ensure that the hoses and belts are in good shape, test all the hinges and latches for functionality, and make sure you don't see any fluid leaks.
Electrical Condition
This one is a little easier -- test the lights, including the interior lights (if applicable), look the battery over for corrosion, and make sure any electronics are working the way they should. Don't forget to test out the turn signals if the car has them. Does the car start? Is there any ignition problem?
Vehicle ID
Now we're getting into some tougher stuff. You'll want to verify that the car is what the current owner claims it is. Serial numbers, model numbers, the model year -- all of these should be verified. If you aren't able to find a reliable resource to check with, you'll need to contact a professional classic car inspection agency. In addition, you'll want to be clear on the status of the car's title.
Accident Damage and Repairs, Restoration History
Accident history is always an important factor for a car, no matter what year it was built. If it has a history of fender-benders, what repairs were done? Are they documented? Is the work high quality? Don't forget to gather all the information you can on any restoration work that was done.
Driving Inspection
Take the car for a spin. Make sure that the seat belts and other safety systems are completely functional. Test the brakes, the clutch, up- and down-shift, acceleration and idle. Listen for any unusual engine noises and make note of problems you detect. You might need to take a few moderately tight corners -- nothing dangerous -- to check out the suspension.
Interior Condition
Take your time. Look under and between the seats, the trunk, and the dash. Check out the glove box and any other storage area. Make sure the carpet and upholstery is in good condition, that the radio works, the instrument panel is functional, and that the steering column is in great shape.
Body Condition
This is usually a lot of fun. In this step you'll be looking all over the exterior of the car, including the underside, searching for rust and other big problems. Verify that the badging and insignias are all solidly attached, as well as the chrome. Give the bumpers a good tug to ensure that they are functional and solid. Inspect the tires for treadwear and sidewall condition. Finally, don't neglect the paint finish.
Be a Pain
Ask lots of questions, look for documentation, and be firm without being rude. Keep your emotions in check and try to remain focused on what you're doing. Don't let any pressure get to you -- if someone pressures you into a buy, they may be hiding something and trying to get you to make a deal before you find out what it is.
Featured Car of the Month: 1994 FORD MUSTANG COBRA INDY PACE CAR
1994 saw a major redesign for the Ford Mustang, as well as Mustang's return to Indianapolis driven by Parnelli Jones. The all-new 1994 Mustang Cobra convertible became the third Mustang to pace the Indy 500. The 1994 Mustang was powered by a modified version of Ford's 5.0L V-8 engine that produced 240 horsepower. Only 1000 replicas of the red-and-tan convertible were produced.
The 30th year anniversary of Mustang occurred in 1994 and was celebrated with the fourth major redesign of the Mustang. Of course, the new design was influenced significantly from the 1964 model, but the 1994 model had a look all its own and a significant amount of power. One design feature reminiscent of the '64 Mustang was the famous pony running through the grille of the Mustang. Having been missing for 16 years, fans were ecstatic the pony was back.
Other design changes included the Fox-4 platform that was modified to be better at reducing vibration and noise, as well as altogether stronger and stiffer. Larger rocker panels, roof rails, and stronger joints were all part of the changes to the car. The many changes to the design resulted in a more aerodynamic Mustang, one that was curvier and more modern that the past edginess of the Mustang design.
For 1994 the hatchback was finally discontinued, but the popular coupe and convertibles remained.
The anniversary year combined with the new design and ever affordable price resulted in a big sales year for the Mustang. In fact, Mustang sold 10,000 more cars in 1994 than in the 1993 model year. That is a significant difference and one that complemented Ford on the new Mustang's design and pony car power.
When we reported in January Ford was planning to resurrect the Boss 302 name and add it to the Mustang lineup for the 2008 model year, we failed to mention that Saleen, the boutique automaker based in Irvine, California, will sell you one now. You read that right: Buy your Boss 302 Mustang today! Simply visit the nearest certified Saleen Ford dealer or the new Saleen Store in Irvine, scrawl your John Hancock on a check for $61,565, and begin frosting that shiny orange paint with white clouds of Pirelli smoke. story
12-06-06: While Ford has been suffering financial and market woes in the past few years, the company continues to win awards and accolades for its products and engineering. This week Wards Auto World announced its annual "Ward's 10 Best Engines" list which included not one, but two of Ford’s power plants.
The new 3.5 liter Duratec DOHC 24-valve V6 made the list for the first time and it was joined by the 4.6 liter 3-valve SOHC V8 for the third year in a row. Fords engines are included in a heady list of world class power plants including those of BMW, Audi, Daimler Benz, and Toyota.
"This is an exceptional accomplishment and a testament to our powertrain development process." said Barb Samardzich, vice president, Ford Motor Company, Powertrain Product Development Operations. "The 3.5-liter engine class is one of the most competitive in the industry, so it is high praise to have our new engine stand out and be among the 10 best in the industry."
Ford’s new 3.5 liter V6 is rated at 265 hp. Currently, the engine is available in the all new Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX and MKZ. In the coming years the engine will become the backbone of Ford’s car line up eventually being offered in the Ford Five Hundred, Freestyle, Fusion, a number of future models to be announced, and possibly even the next generation Ford Mustang.
One of the remarkable features of the 3.5 liter V6 is that is produces its horsepower on 87 octane “regular” unleaded. Many of the same engines on Ward’s 10 best list require premium gas to produce similar power. The current 3.5 V6 is also just the starting point. Ford says the engine is designed to grow larger in displacement and can easily accept turbochargers and direct injection technology. We recently saw a supercharged application on display at the 2006 SEMA show as well. The Duratec 3.5 V-6 is produced in the goold 'ol USA in Lima, Ohio.
Again, the much loved 4.6 liter 3-valve V8 from Mustang, Explorer, and Mountaineer has made the grade also. This is the third consecutive year the engine has made list. The 3-valve technology in the 4.6-liter V-8 offers improved power coupled with better fuel efficiency and reduced emissions. Also made in the United States, the 4.6 hails from Romeo, Michigan.
Ward's 10 Best Engines for 2007:
• Audi AG 2L turbocharged DOHC I-4 (Audi A3)
• BMW AG 3L DOHC I-6 (Z4 3.0si)
• BMW AG 3L turbocharged DOHC I-6 (335i)
• DaimlerChrysler AG 3L DOHC V-6 turbodiesel (MB E320 /Jeep Grand Cherokee)
• DaimlerChrysler AG Hemi 5.7L OHV V-8 (Chrysler 300C)
• Ford Motor Co. Duratec 35 3.5L DOHC V-6 (Ford Edge/Lincoln MKX)
• Ford Motor Co. 4.6L SOHC V-8 (Mustang GT/Mustang Shelby GT)
• Mazda Motor Corp. 2.3L DISI turbocharged DOHC I-4 (Mazdaspeed3)
• Nissan Motor Co. Ltd. 3.5L DOHC V-6 (Infiniti G35)
• Toyota Motor Corp. 3.5L DOHC V-6 (Lexus IS 350)
1966 Pony Deluxe Mustang For Sale
It’s all original and needs a little fix up.
Pony interior: Turquoise – White, driver seat needs work
Wimbledon, White. Paint is in good condition. Decals are removable.
Gas gauge needs to be fixed, 200 Sprint 6 cylinder: 3 Speed, 130,000 miles
Rear light- wiring needs work
This was her only transportation so it drives well
Nancy paid $5,000.00 for it 5 years ago.
She is desperate and would like to get $4,000.00
The mustang is parked at our home here in Medford, Oregon
Last week, Gary and I celebrated our 6th wedding anniversary. We were as much in love today as the day we married. Tonight, I plan my beloved husband's funeral. I'm sorry I have to tell everyone this way, but I don't know how else to let everyone know.
Gary was only 39 years old. Much too young to go.
A vetran of the first Gulf War, Gary served part of his service in the US Navy aboard the USS Midway. After serving 10 years in the Navy, as both a reservist and active duty, he returned to his hometown of Albany, Oregon and worked in several service stations, until we met in 2000. We were married in 2001 and were very happy together. We actually liked being together and spending our time together. Over time, we lived in places like Bellingham and Maple Falls, in Washington, and finally settled in a small town in Oregon. He spent the last 3 years working as a civilian for the US Army, and just recently we opened our own custom printing shop, called T-Signs, where we custom printed things like T-shirts, mouse pads, hats and golf balls. He also loved Mustangs, and took pride in working this site whenever time allowed him. He was the heart (in addition to being the founder and President of Mustang Club of B.C., and World Mustang Association) of this site.
Today (July 6th, 2007) Gary was at work in his job as a federal officer for the US Army, when he suddenly collapsed. The other officers who were there at the time called for an ambulance, and tried without success to recussitate him, as did the paramedics when they arrived. He never regained conciousness, and was already dead when I arrived at the hospital.
Gary will be interred at Willamette National Cemetary with full military honors on August 2, 2007, the day that would have marked his 40th birthday..
Gary was the most wonderful person I have ever had the pleasure of knowing. He kept me young and alive and loved me as much as I loved him, and I will always miss him. I can't believe he's actually gone. He was the love of my life, and my best friend, all rolled into one.
IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT!!!
In Memory of
Gary A. Moore
Founder and President of
World Mustang Association
and
Mustang Club of B.C.
August 2, 1967 ~ July 6, 2007
UPDATE!!
As Gary is no longer with us to update this site, it will remain as it is now, as a tribute and memorial to him and his love of the Mustang Car. No further changes will be made to this site.
